Saturday 27 June 2009

Wednesday 24 June 2009 - Eagle's Nest Shelter

Had a bit of a scare whilst in Duncannon on Sunday - I noticed a large red bullseye type welt on my lower back, the tell-tale sign of Lyme's disease caused by the bite of a deer tick. Saw a doctor who prescribed the relevant antibiotics, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Have been hiking with Monkey Wrench for the past few days which has been great although the rocky trail in Pennsylvania is starting to take its toll on my feet.
Saw my first rattlesnake yesterday - a huge thing curled up at the side of the trail - a little scary!

Friday 19 June 2009 - Alec Kennedy Shelter

Did the half gallon challenge no problem - half a gallon of Cherry Jubilee ice cream polished off in just over 30 minutes. I then also managed to hike 15 miles after eating eat (to make a 25 mile day).
Am very tired now though so will leave it there for now... oh I'm halfway on the trail now too - just less than 1,100 miles to Kathadin.

Thursday 18 June 2009 - Birch Run Shelter

19.6 miles today and feeling pretty good. Strangely I seem to have dropped into an area of trail bereft of thru-hikers. I was alone at the shelter last night (a first for me) and as yet there is only one other section hiker here tonight.
Tomorrow is a big day - the halfway point of the trail and the notorious half gallon challenge. Can I eat half a gallon of ice cream in one sitting? I'm gonna try my hardest that's for sure!

Wednesday 17 June 2009 - Tumbling Run Shelter

Got on the trail this morning feeling very nervous indeed about my knee - took some painkillers hoping that would allow me to at least hike the 14 miles to the second shelter down the trail. However, I'm sitting here now having hikes 18.1 miles and with no real pain to report from my knee. I feel cautiously relieved. Yesterday for the first time I entertained the possibility that I had picked up the injury that might end my hike and it scared the life out of me. I also think it made me realise for the first time just how much importance I've placed on completing this adventure.
Although my body felt better, the weather was horrendous, so I've arrived at the shelter this afternoon soaked to the skin. I'm writing this dressed in my only dry clothes - a fleece, a blue waterproof, long underwear and plastic sandals. Quite the fashion icon.
After writing last night, I spoke to Lisa (on my new US cell phone) and then met some other thru-hikers, both of which raised my spirits. Am hoping that tomorrow is equally positive on the knee front and that I can start to generate some of the rhythm I mentioned yesterday.

Tuesday 16 June 2009 - Ensign Cowall Shelter

I got back on the trail yesterday after an amazing 10 days in Washington D.C. with Lisa. Spent the majority of yesterday's hiking thinking how great it was to back on the trail again and covering miles. However, around 18 miles in to my 22 mile hike I began to get some severe pain in the outside of my right knee - a recurrence of the problem that I had in the months leading up to the start of the trip (but this time in the other leg). I hobbled the last few miles to a shelter where I did all of the exercises and massage routines that the physio taught me during my treatment prior to my hike. I felt good this morning, but over the first section of rocky ground, the pain returned meaning that I have managed to hike only 8.1 miles today, a pretty poor effort. What makes this injury so much more worrying than my shins is that my prior treatment to resolve this problem took 3 months - clearly I don't have that time now. I feel awful as the idea of being forced to quit the trail has entered my head for the first time - when I think about it, it makes me feel physically sick.
The plan for now is to reduce the mileage to around 10 a day and do all of the stretching and strength exercises from my earlier treatment. Having left Washington with a head full of positive thoughts, I now feel very low, a feeling that is compounded by the fact that, having taken 10 days off, I now don't know any of the thru-hikers around me on the trail. Also feel that since Waynesboro I have lost any real rhythm to my hiking - I would love so much to have a period of 2 or 3 weeks where I hike 18-22 miles a day.
Turns out this thru-hiking lark really is a difficult business. I just hope that with some T.L.C. my knee will be up to the job.

Tuesday 9 June 2009

Tuesady 9 June 2009 - District Hotel, Washington D.C.

It's my birthday! Lisa and I are currently in our hotel room where I've just opened my presents and watched the happy birthday video that Lisa put together for me of messages from the folks back home. Having a nice relaxing time at the moment, eating excellent food (and lots of it) and seeing the sights of Washington. We are taking it easy though, as some of Lisa's cuts and bruises from the crash are quite nasty and need to be rested.

Tonight we're going to a famous Washington D.C. hot dog restaurant and then to a baseball game - quite a yankee-doodle evening. Lisa got me some tickets to see Jenny Lewis (an American singer-songwriter) on Thursday night which I'm very excited about.

P.S. On Thursday I got to Harper's Ferry, West Virginia and passed the 1,000 mile mark on the trail.

Tuesday 2 June 2009 - Dicks Dome Shelter

Stayed in the town of Front Royal last night as it was David's 30th birthday, so myself, Rolling Stone, Robert (the middle Smith brother), O.G., Scout and Braid went out for a meal and some drinks. Although I had fun, my mind was pre-occupied with the news from Lisa that her and Regan had been in a car accident in Nashville on Sunday and had written off Regan's camper van. Although they were both okay except for cuts and bruises, it was obviously an upsetting experience and one that made it hard for me to be apart from Lisa. The upshot is that Lisa and Regan are recovering and sorting out the relevant paperwork in a hotel in Nashville and are planning to fly out on Friday - Lisa to Washington D.C. where I plan to meet her at the airport. It's a turbulent start to her trip and definitely not what we'd have hoped for, but hopefully we can take some time to relax and recover in D.C.

Saturday 30 May 2009 - Pass Mountain Shelter

Glad to say that the shin is now in full working order after being tested on a 20 mile day yesterday and a 19 mile day today. Spent last night at the Big Meadows lodge where David, Rolling Stone (and his dog, Coal), the three Smith brothers and I shared a very small cabin to allow us to make best use of the pub on site at the lodge. We were there until it closed and it was great to relax with a few beers.

Also yesterday came the moment I've been hoping for since entering Shenandoah National Park - I saw my first bear. The mother bear was sitting around 25 feet from the trail (see picture below) and her cub was playing in the tree above her. It was amazing and a huge rush. Since then I've seen 7 or 8 more.

Feels great to be properly hiking again and seeing the miles disappear. I passed the 900 mile mark yesterday.

Wednesday 27 May 2009 - Loft Mountain Campground (still)

Last night and particularly this morning were wonderful. Lisa and Regan arrived at the campground after 11pm and had had a torrid time driving in some awful foggy conditions. I stayed up until 2am with them and had a late dinner and a beer then I slept in Scooby (Regan's camper van) instead of in my tent. It was fantastic to see Lisa again and now I can't wait to get to Harper's Ferry to spend some more time with her. It made me feel that my shin injury was, in a way, serendipitous as although it slowed me down, it allowed me to meet up with Lisa and Regan which was a huge plus.

This morning Regan cooked pancakes for breakfast and we relaxed until just after 12pm when they hit the road. To make things even better, my shins feel great and I will be back hiking tomorrow. Have just worked out some mileages and despite the delay, I think I will be less than 50 miles short of where I had planned to be at this stage. Today the world looks a little more rosy!

Sunday 7 June 2009

Tuesday 26 May 2009 - Loft Mountain Campground

Spent the day icing my shin, writing postcards and reading the book that Spaceman gave to me at Calf Mountain shelter (a Vladimir Nabakov for anyone interested). All of the above falls into the shade compared to today's piece of wonderful fortune. Since my shin has slowed me down and meant that I am around 80 or 90 miles south of where I'd expected to be, I'm in a perfect spot to act as an overnight stop for Lisa and Regan on their roadtrip. I spoke to them this morning and we arranged that they are coming to meet me this evening at 8 or 9 (although I suspect heavy fog may slow their progress). Can't wait to see Lisa - feels like Christmas!

Monday 25 May 2009 - Loft Mountain Campground

Got back on the trail this morning to do 13 miles, but pretty quickly decided that my current course of action really isn't working. Hiking short days and trying to let my shin recover seems fine in theory, but in practice it means days full of worrying about whether the pain is getting better or worse. Hence, I've come to a campground with a store and a phone where I intend to stay until my shin gets completely better - even if it takes 5 days. Having made that decision I now feel much better and know that all I have to concentrate on is healing up.

As a huge bonus, today is the day that Lisa arrives in the U.S which is a big morale boost. On the whole I think my spirits have begun to pick up today, hopefully my shin will follow suit.

Sunday 24 May 2009 - Black Rock Shelter

The time since my last entry has been the toughest on the trail so far. The shin pain I developed prior to Waynesboro was very slow in healing so I ended up spending 4 nights in town. In theory this doesn't sound so unappealing - lots of restaurants and grocery stores and plenty of time to relax, but by the fourth day doing it, it was becoming very difficult. Essentially, I'm out here currently (and in towns like Waynesboro) to hike, so if I'm not making progress life gets very frustrating, a frustration which is intensified by seeing other hikers come and go from town back on to the trail.

Hence on Monday I got back on the trail despite my shin not being 100% to do a tentative 7 miles. I didn't feel much pain during the day, but when setting up my tent in the evening, I had some pain that made me think I'd taken a backward step in my recovery. I spoke with Lisa on my mobile phone and decided that the best course of action was to hitch back to Waynesboro in the morning and spend more time recovering in a motel.

When the morning arrived, my shin felt surprisingly positive - not pain free, but better than it had been. I figured I would test it out over the first five miles and decide on a course of action from there. Since it felt good, I hiked 13 miles in total (still a short day) and kept my pace down. Aim to do the same tomorrow and hopefully the recovery will continue. Either way I'm not going back to Waynesboro - I completely killed that town.

On a different note, I managed to get mobile phone service today to keep in touch with the last day of the Premier League season - I can't believe that Newcastle are no longer in the top flight of English football. Mike Ashley is a halfwit.

Tuesday 19 May 2009 - Waynesboro, Virginia

11:30am

Today marks two months on the trail for me and I'm celebrating by spending some time in town. I got a ride to Waynesboro with a 'trail angel' that drove out especially to pick me up from the Visitor's Centre 5 miles out of town. I am camped by the river at a small area maintained by the local YMCA - it's free and since I spent so much money on my last town stop, I'm going to try to do Waynesboro cheaply.

Currently sitting in a Laundromat that looks as if it hasn't changed a thing since 1985 waiting for my clothes to wash. Next things on the agenda are eat lunch at the diner across the street, shower at the YMCA, internet at the library and eat ice cream from the grocery store. Resupply can wait until tomorrow.

Just noticed a sign on one of the washing machines that reads 'To prevent oversudsing do not use more than 1/4 cup of detergent.' Since when has 'oversudsing' been a word?

12:30pm

Just eaten an awesome lunch of roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy. The beef also came with a choice of one additional vegetable side dish. I chose 'macaroni cheese' from the list of vegetables. Since when has pasta been considered a vegetable? Next stop, the bookstore.