We've left North Carolina now for our first stop in New England- Providence, Rhode Island. We are staying with Lisa's best friend Regan who is a biologist at Brown University. However, before thinking about what awaits us in the North Eastern United States (and beyond), it's worth mentioning what we got up to in our last weeks in Winston-Salem.
Firstly there was my first taste of college American football with a game between local Wake Forest and Stanford Universities. Lisa's friend Ryan got us some tickets for the game and made sure that we sat with the students (rather than with the regular fans) as this is where all the singing and general rambunctiousness goes on. The game was really quite good with Wake Forest staging a big comeback in the second half to win 24-17.
Entertaining as this was, it was merely a precursor to our leisure activity the following weekend. It should be recorded for posterity that, on Saturday 19 September 2009, Richard Waggott attended his first ever chili championship. Frankly, it was wonderful. There were about 40 vendors giving out samples of their chili hoping for votes for the people's choice award. I'd really started to think that my chili was good but now realise just how much work there is to do - these people were serious. There were smoky chilis, beef only chilis (i.e. no beans), chilis with a hint of cinnamon and fennel and all manner of other varieties. I felt that my status as a chili expert was borne out somewhat as the vendor I selected as the best was duly awarded the people's choice award. The day was rounded off with some country music and Lisa, Janet (Lisa's friend from work) and I went home very happy indeed.
After some frantic packing (and a rather expensive visit to the post office to send things back to the UK) Lisa and I boarded our plane to Providence on Monday (21st), We plan to stay here for a week relaxing with Regan before kicking on with the rest of our trip.
Tuesday 22 September 2009
Thursday 10 September 2009
Thursday 10 September 2009 – Winston Salem, North Carolina
The dreadlock battle is ongoing, but slowly but surely, I think I am winning.
I’ve been up to lots of interesting things in the 10 days since the last entry. Firstly, I’ve been helping out Lisa with her work with the Office of the Capital Defender (the office that deals with all cases in the area that might carry the death penalty). As part of this we went to an exoneration hearing last week where a guy was let out of jail after serving 14 years for a crime that he didn’t commit. We went to the jailhouse to see the moment he was set free prompting lots of hugs and tears from his family and something of a media circus outside (as much as Winston-Salem ever generates a media circus). We also went along to a press conference where a group of local religious and community leaders called for the resignation of the District Attorney because of some unfortunate comments he made in a local newspaper about why black people are more likely to be convicted of crimes than white people. Life has been like living in a very slow paced episode of ‘The Wire.’
Away from the justice system, Lisa and I have just returned to Winston- Salem from a long weekend in Savannah and Charleston. Both are beautiful cities with lots of amazing architecture. Lisa’s camera has never worked so hard. The highlight of the weekend was a BBQ and bluegrass festival that we went to on an old plantation just outside Charleston. The food was excellent (very good ribs), but the music was the real star – rush out post haste and purchase anything by the Carolina Chocolate Drops, they rocked my banjo-pickin’, hoe-downin’ world.
We’re in for more treats over the next couple of weeks – this weekend we are heading to a college American football game, and then next weekend is the North Carolina Chilli Championship right here in Winston Salem. I’ll be going along with a notebook to poach ideas.
I’ve been up to lots of interesting things in the 10 days since the last entry. Firstly, I’ve been helping out Lisa with her work with the Office of the Capital Defender (the office that deals with all cases in the area that might carry the death penalty). As part of this we went to an exoneration hearing last week where a guy was let out of jail after serving 14 years for a crime that he didn’t commit. We went to the jailhouse to see the moment he was set free prompting lots of hugs and tears from his family and something of a media circus outside (as much as Winston-Salem ever generates a media circus). We also went along to a press conference where a group of local religious and community leaders called for the resignation of the District Attorney because of some unfortunate comments he made in a local newspaper about why black people are more likely to be convicted of crimes than white people. Life has been like living in a very slow paced episode of ‘The Wire.’
Away from the justice system, Lisa and I have just returned to Winston- Salem from a long weekend in Savannah and Charleston. Both are beautiful cities with lots of amazing architecture. Lisa’s camera has never worked so hard. The highlight of the weekend was a BBQ and bluegrass festival that we went to on an old plantation just outside Charleston. The food was excellent (very good ribs), but the music was the real star – rush out post haste and purchase anything by the Carolina Chocolate Drops, they rocked my banjo-pickin’, hoe-downin’ world.
We’re in for more treats over the next couple of weeks – this weekend we are heading to a college American football game, and then next weekend is the North Carolina Chilli Championship right here in Winston Salem. I’ll be going along with a notebook to poach ideas.
Monday 31 August 2009 – Winston Salem, North Carolina
Since the last entry a whole host of things have taken place – I crossed the 2,000 mile marker, spent the night in my final trail town (Monson), hiked through the ‘100 mile wilderness’ and most importantly, on Monday 24 August 2009, climbed Mount Katahdin and completed my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.
In total the hike took me 159 days to complete including 26 days where I did not hike (largely made up of 5 days off with shin splints, 10 days in Washington and 5 in Burlington). My longest day was on the 12 July when I covered 27.6 miles concluding my longest week on the trail of 159.9 miles. I carried my pack for the entire 2,178.3 miles of the trail and did not miss any section, always returning to the trail from the point at which I had left it. I can now officially call myself a thru-hiker and a member of the class of ’09.
The final miles of the trail were an unusual experience – I experienced a number of conflicting emotions: happiness at being near the end, anxiety at the prospect of picking up an injury in the home straight (particularly as I seemed to grow more accident prone the closer I came to Katahdin), restlessness as wanting to be finished and sadness at knowing that once I’d finished I would no longer be part of the thru-hiker community.
The final day on Katahdin however was wonderful. It is a tough, technical climb, but one that is a lot of fun and gives some fantastic views. The experience at the summit with David, Rolling Stone, Freeze and Motor was excellent as we took lots of photos to ensure we had our perfect ‘summit picture.’ As if completing that trail weren’t enough I got just enough cell phone signal on the summit to receive a text message from Lisa telling me that England had won the 5th Test at the Oval and reclaimed the Ashes. What a day.
That evening we went into Millinocket (after some shenanigans with our ride getting a flat tyre) for a day of relaxing (and celebrating) before moving on to Bangor and my flight, first to Philadelphia and then on to Greensboro, North Carolina to meet Lisa.
I am now sitting in the Office of the Capital Defender in Winston-Salem, North Carolina where Lisa is doing her internship. The last few days in Winston-Salem have been nice (being back with Lisa is wonderful) but my body has started to react a little peculiarly to normal life – my legs ache and my stomach has started to cramp in the last two days – hopefully that will sort itself out soon. I also still wake up every morning thinking that I need to go hiking.I’ve trimmed back the beard a little for my return to polite society, but it’s still very much a woodsman’s beard. My current project is trying to untangle the enormous dreadlocks that have formed in my hair over the past few months – it’s a time consuming and painful business.
In total the hike took me 159 days to complete including 26 days where I did not hike (largely made up of 5 days off with shin splints, 10 days in Washington and 5 in Burlington). My longest day was on the 12 July when I covered 27.6 miles concluding my longest week on the trail of 159.9 miles. I carried my pack for the entire 2,178.3 miles of the trail and did not miss any section, always returning to the trail from the point at which I had left it. I can now officially call myself a thru-hiker and a member of the class of ’09.
The final miles of the trail were an unusual experience – I experienced a number of conflicting emotions: happiness at being near the end, anxiety at the prospect of picking up an injury in the home straight (particularly as I seemed to grow more accident prone the closer I came to Katahdin), restlessness as wanting to be finished and sadness at knowing that once I’d finished I would no longer be part of the thru-hiker community.
The final day on Katahdin however was wonderful. It is a tough, technical climb, but one that is a lot of fun and gives some fantastic views. The experience at the summit with David, Rolling Stone, Freeze and Motor was excellent as we took lots of photos to ensure we had our perfect ‘summit picture.’ As if completing that trail weren’t enough I got just enough cell phone signal on the summit to receive a text message from Lisa telling me that England had won the 5th Test at the Oval and reclaimed the Ashes. What a day.
That evening we went into Millinocket (after some shenanigans with our ride getting a flat tyre) for a day of relaxing (and celebrating) before moving on to Bangor and my flight, first to Philadelphia and then on to Greensboro, North Carolina to meet Lisa.
I am now sitting in the Office of the Capital Defender in Winston-Salem, North Carolina where Lisa is doing her internship. The last few days in Winston-Salem have been nice (being back with Lisa is wonderful) but my body has started to react a little peculiarly to normal life – my legs ache and my stomach has started to cramp in the last two days – hopefully that will sort itself out soon. I also still wake up every morning thinking that I need to go hiking.I’ve trimmed back the beard a little for my return to polite society, but it’s still very much a woodsman’s beard. My current project is trying to untangle the enormous dreadlocks that have formed in my hair over the past few months – it’s a time consuming and painful business.
Thursday 13 August 2009 – Stratton, Maine
Have just spoken to Lisa and booked my flights down to North Carolina on 27 August – seems very final to be thinking about plans for the end of the trip, but it’s part of the reality of closing in on Mt Katahdin. Am in my second to last town – they’re getting smaller and smaller as we get further into rural Maine.
Monday 10 August 2009 – Bemis Mountain Lean To
Crossed my final state line on Saturday and moved into Maine and the last 280 miles of the trail. Since then I’ve walked what is purportedly ‘the toughest mile on the A.T.’ through Mahoosuc Notch. The Notch is a valley floor crammed with lost of huge boulders that you have to scramble and climb over and under – it was tiring, but fantastic fun – the mile took me just over an hour to complete. That evening I had the welcome pleasure of having dinner with a boy-scout troop who had cooked spaghetti with sun-dried tomatoes and pepperoni, decidedly nicer than the noodles that I’d planned to eat.
Earlier today I was reunited with Rolling Stone, David, Motor and Freeze, and just before entering camp this evening, David called to me and Stone to be quiet – there was a moose grazing near to the trail. It was an awesome, trip completing sight – the moose was huge; at least as tall as a camel and much more imposing. Really, very impressive indeed.Still some tough miles to come though…
Earlier today I was reunited with Rolling Stone, David, Motor and Freeze, and just before entering camp this evening, David called to me and Stone to be quiet – there was a moose grazing near to the trail. It was an awesome, trip completing sight – the moose was huge; at least as tall as a camel and much more imposing. Really, very impressive indeed.Still some tough miles to come though…
Tuesday 6 August 2009 – Gorham, New Hampshire
Am more or less done with the Whites now – they were very tough indeed. All of the downhills made my knees (and everybody elses) really ache. However we were fortunate enough to have a beautiful day on Mt Washington and some incredible views (apart from the crowded summit complete with car park and snack bar). My feelings towards the hut system softened a little as I moved through them – some of the staff were really friendly and we had some good times. I was even asked to give a presentation to a group of boy scouts on my thru-hiking experience as my work for stay at one hut. My favourite question in the Q&A afterwards was a little boy who asked ‘what do you get more of: up-hills or down-hills?’ Ermm….
Am staying tonight in a motel with Wags, Gangsta, Plunger and Mr Right – it’s been fun travelling with them for the past few days. Still have some very tough terrain to come across the border in southern Maine, but I’m slowly getting there.
Am staying tonight in a motel with Wags, Gangsta, Plunger and Mr Right – it’s been fun travelling with them for the past few days. Still have some very tough terrain to come across the border in southern Maine, but I’m slowly getting there.
Sunday 2 August 2009 – Galehead Hut
The hiking the last couple of days has been very tough – the Whites have some huge up and downs (as well as some incredible scenery) and the terrain is very rocky and muddy. The peculiar thing about the Whites is that the shelters where I usually sleep and that are free to stay in on the remainder of the trail, here charge $8 a night for the privilege. There is however, the option of working for stay at one of the 8 huts maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club. These huts accommodate between 30 and 50 people and charge around $80-$100 per night to stay. The work for stay arrangement entitles thru-hikers to eat the leftovers at dinner and breakfast and sleep on the floor in return for the completion of some chores. The problem is that this creates a very distinct sense that thru-hikers are second-class citizens – I’m currently sitting writing this tucked away in a corner as all of the other guests are tucking into a hearty dinner. It’s something akin to Chinese water torture.
I’ve had to reduce my mileage from those that I was doing through Massachusetts and Vermont but am still managing to do around 15 miles a day. Still got a lot of climbing to go in the Whites including the Presidential range and Mt Washington – the second highest peak on the trail.
I’ve had to reduce my mileage from those that I was doing through Massachusetts and Vermont but am still managing to do around 15 miles a day. Still got a lot of climbing to go in the Whites including the Presidential range and Mt Washington – the second highest peak on the trail.
Friday 31 July 2009 – Beaver Brook Shelter
Have been back on the trail now for three days after seeing Lisa and am well back into the A.T. life. The break was fantastic though – it was wonderful to see Lisa and we had a great time exploring Burlington and northern Vermont as well as gorging ourselves at the Ben & Jerry’s factory. It was very hard to say goodbye, but I am glad that the next time that I see her, I won’t have to disappear into the woods again.The days on the trail since getting back on have been a little more interesting than usual. There has been an awful lot of rain, which has meant that rivers that would usually be easily fordable have been a little more challenging – on more than one occasion I’ve had water up to my thighs. Today I climbed Mount Moosilauke the first of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, supposedly the toughest part of the trail. The next few days should be very interesting…
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