Hiked 21 miles today in glorious sunshine and without any pain whatsoever from my shin. Hiked with Peg and Paul all day and was really nice for a change to have some company during the day. We hiked past waterfalls and alongside Watauga lake and over its dam which made for some excellent views.
Thinking that we'll hike most of the way to Damascus tomorrow and then camp just outside town before heading in to hit the post office.
P.S. Have just noticed that I didn't mention earlier that I have now left North Carolina for the final time and am now in Tennessee. I also passed the 400 mile mark on Tuesday.
Saturday 25 April 2009
Wednesday 22 April 2009 - Kincora Hostel
Wow, so much to write about over the past few days...
On Sunday I hiked a crazy long day over Roand Mountain (which is more than 6,000 ft) and planned to finish at Overmountain Shelter having done a total of 22 miles. However I was so tired towards the end of the day that I walked straight past the turning for the shelter. By then the rain was coming downand the wind really blowing. I walked about 2 miles past the turn before realising my mistake - fortunately I quickly managed to find a water source and some flat ground to pitch my tent and the rain let up so that I got everything erected dry. Getting into dry clothes (after dinnes) and then into my sleeping bag was bliss - the rain hammered on my tent all night, but I slept like a baby.
Next morning I had another dry spell to strike camp and had some excellent views (that reminded me of hiking in Yorkshire and the Peaks). I rolled into Mountaineer shelter at 3pm having done 16 miles just before a huge rainstorm - seems the weather Gods were smiling on me - I'd also been lucky enough to have sunshie at Jones Falls (the highest falls on the trail) earlier in the day. Mountaineer shelter is excellent - it has three tiersso that some people sleep in small loft area. The two people up there - Hammock + Rapunzel entertained us with music (Hammock on the ukelele and Rapunzel singing). We settled in for sleep but were awoken around midnight by Squeegie, one of the girls staying that night, having awhat sounded like a terrifying nightmare. In the pitch dark of the shelter, she suddenly shouted (in a very scared voice) 'Hello?!, HELLO?!' I awoke convinced a bear had come into camp. Thankfully some of the other girls staying at the shelter comforted Squeegie back to sleep as she'd been in tears.
On Tuesday morning I planned to hike to Kincora hostel, spend the night and resupply before hitting the trail to Damascus on Wednesday. However, during Tuesday's 15 miles I developed a pain in my left shin which, although not debilitating, warranted some attention. I iced it but awoke on Wednesday morning to find that there was still some pain. I was in two minds as to whether to hike or not, but Longhaul gave me some good advice about there being little to gain and a whole lot to lose from hiking through the pain.
It's worth talking a little about Longhaul while I have time - last night he bought all of the ingredients for the 15+ people staying at the hostel to have a huge dinner of steak, salad, pasta + tomato sauce and garlic bread. He's also one of six people carrying a video cameras as part of documentary that's being made about the trail - he interviewed me yesterday as part of it. He is probably in his 50's and loves the comrarderie of the trail and is super generous - he's also a really nice chap.
Also worth a mention is Bob Peoples, the owner of the Kincora Hostel. He runs the hostel as a hobby (rather thanas a money making exercise) amd only asks for a voluntary donation 0f $4 per night. The hostel really feels like home. Bob also undertakes a huge amount of trail maintenance (in fact him and a group of 10 or so volunteers have just left to do some work today). This includes an annual 'hardcore' day when upwards of 100 volunteers come together to do a large project on the trail. In 2006, 143 volunteers hauled all of the wood and equipment into the woods to build Mountaineer shelter (that I mentioned earlier) in just 1 and a half days - quite an acheivement.
I've also caught up with Peggy and Paul so I might hike into Damascus with them. I've got big plans to make jelly in my plastic water bottle, leave it to set overnight and then eat it for breakfast. Will see how that works out...
For now it's back to the ice pack on the shin - it seems to be doing the job.
On Sunday I hiked a crazy long day over Roand Mountain (which is more than 6,000 ft) and planned to finish at Overmountain Shelter having done a total of 22 miles. However I was so tired towards the end of the day that I walked straight past the turning for the shelter. By then the rain was coming downand the wind really blowing. I walked about 2 miles past the turn before realising my mistake - fortunately I quickly managed to find a water source and some flat ground to pitch my tent and the rain let up so that I got everything erected dry. Getting into dry clothes (after dinnes) and then into my sleeping bag was bliss - the rain hammered on my tent all night, but I slept like a baby.
Next morning I had another dry spell to strike camp and had some excellent views (that reminded me of hiking in Yorkshire and the Peaks). I rolled into Mountaineer shelter at 3pm having done 16 miles just before a huge rainstorm - seems the weather Gods were smiling on me - I'd also been lucky enough to have sunshie at Jones Falls (the highest falls on the trail) earlier in the day. Mountaineer shelter is excellent - it has three tiersso that some people sleep in small loft area. The two people up there - Hammock + Rapunzel entertained us with music (Hammock on the ukelele and Rapunzel singing). We settled in for sleep but were awoken around midnight by Squeegie, one of the girls staying that night, having awhat sounded like a terrifying nightmare. In the pitch dark of the shelter, she suddenly shouted (in a very scared voice) 'Hello?!, HELLO?!' I awoke convinced a bear had come into camp. Thankfully some of the other girls staying at the shelter comforted Squeegie back to sleep as she'd been in tears.
On Tuesday morning I planned to hike to Kincora hostel, spend the night and resupply before hitting the trail to Damascus on Wednesday. However, during Tuesday's 15 miles I developed a pain in my left shin which, although not debilitating, warranted some attention. I iced it but awoke on Wednesday morning to find that there was still some pain. I was in two minds as to whether to hike or not, but Longhaul gave me some good advice about there being little to gain and a whole lot to lose from hiking through the pain.
It's worth talking a little about Longhaul while I have time - last night he bought all of the ingredients for the 15+ people staying at the hostel to have a huge dinner of steak, salad, pasta + tomato sauce and garlic bread. He's also one of six people carrying a video cameras as part of documentary that's being made about the trail - he interviewed me yesterday as part of it. He is probably in his 50's and loves the comrarderie of the trail and is super generous - he's also a really nice chap.
Also worth a mention is Bob Peoples, the owner of the Kincora Hostel. He runs the hostel as a hobby (rather thanas a money making exercise) amd only asks for a voluntary donation 0f $4 per night. The hostel really feels like home. Bob also undertakes a huge amount of trail maintenance (in fact him and a group of 10 or so volunteers have just left to do some work today). This includes an annual 'hardcore' day when upwards of 100 volunteers come together to do a large project on the trail. In 2006, 143 volunteers hauled all of the wood and equipment into the woods to build Mountaineer shelter (that I mentioned earlier) in just 1 and a half days - quite an acheivement.
I've also caught up with Peggy and Paul so I might hike into Damascus with them. I've got big plans to make jelly in my plastic water bottle, leave it to set overnight and then eat it for breakfast. Will see how that works out...
For now it's back to the ice pack on the shin - it seems to be doing the job.
Saturday 18 April 2009 - Cherry Gap Shelter
Lying in my tent and just I started writing an owl began to hoot - that's going to be irritating this evening...
Today was a good day - although the hiking was tough due to lots of uphill and hot temperatures I had a real boost from talking to Mum and Dad (and Simon and Sam) and particularly Lisa as it was her birthday. I spent yesterday taking a day off in Erwin, TN which allowed me to resupply (I've gone over the top and am carrying way too much food) and fill my face. I ate (all you can eat) KFC buffet on Thursday night, 4 double cheeseburgers and a milkshake for lunch on Friday and then a large pepperoni pizza for dinner. I ate so much at KFC that I thought I'd done myself a permanent mischief, but it's all a necessary evil - it's about getting the calories in when you can. My energy levels felt good today as a result.
Going to try to get back into the habit of sleeping in my tent as although it's less convenient, it's far more comfortable and relaxing.
Feeling very tired, hope that owl has taken a break...
Today was a good day - although the hiking was tough due to lots of uphill and hot temperatures I had a real boost from talking to Mum and Dad (and Simon and Sam) and particularly Lisa as it was her birthday. I spent yesterday taking a day off in Erwin, TN which allowed me to resupply (I've gone over the top and am carrying way too much food) and fill my face. I ate (all you can eat) KFC buffet on Thursday night, 4 double cheeseburgers and a milkshake for lunch on Friday and then a large pepperoni pizza for dinner. I ate so much at KFC that I thought I'd done myself a permanent mischief, but it's all a necessary evil - it's about getting the calories in when you can. My energy levels felt good today as a result.
Going to try to get back into the habit of sleeping in my tent as although it's less convenient, it's far more comfortable and relaxing.
Feeling very tired, hope that owl has taken a break...
Wednesday 15 April 2009 - Bald Mountain Shelter
Since I've had a short day today and am already in my sleeping bag at 6pm (and currently all alone in the shelter) I thought now would be a good time to jot down a few reflections and memories as I approach a month on the trail.
Firstly I'd say that the thing that prepared me best for the A.T. wasn't being in the scouts or doing my preparation hikes, but going to the Glastonbury festival. I reckon that if you can put up with 5 days of rain at Worthy Farm, Pilton then the hardships of the A.T. will be a piece of cake.
Secondly, I've noticed that I've written in my journal hardly at all about the people I've been hiking with. Over the past week or so I've hiked and sheltered with the same group most nights - they are:
Firstly I'd say that the thing that prepared me best for the A.T. wasn't being in the scouts or doing my preparation hikes, but going to the Glastonbury festival. I reckon that if you can put up with 5 days of rain at Worthy Farm, Pilton then the hardships of the A.T. will be a piece of cake.
Secondly, I've noticed that I've written in my journal hardly at all about the people I've been hiking with. Over the past week or so I've hiked and sheltered with the same group most nights - they are:
- Monkey Wrench: A 50 year old guy from Boston who quit his job as a web designer to hike the trail . His wife is back at home while he hikes, but previously together they have cylced from Lands End to John O'Groats, climbed Kilimanjaro and lots of other things. We've hiked plenty of the trail together - he cracks me up and is a good source of info on life in the States;
- Peggy (Cuppa Joe) & Paul: Husband and wife from southern Maine, Peggy is a waitress and breakfast chef and Paul is a landscape garner. They've been excellent company on the trail since I met them wya back at Standing Indian Shelter. Peggy + Beccy are the source of much giggling and high spirits on evenings in the shelters.
- Matt (Tumbleweed) & Beccy (Spitfire): Also from southern Maine (and sick of being told that they are 'hiking home') Matt workd in marine technology and Beccy is an occupational therapist. I've hiked with them a few days and they set an awesome pace and are lots of fun.
Seems like the group has (inevitably) broken apart a little now, but it's been excellent in the evenings reflecting on the trail with them all.
So far I'm really enjoying my time out here, but am excited for the day that Lisa arrives in the States both so that she can start her adventure and so that (at the start of June) we can see each other.
Doesn't look like there's anyone else coming to the shelter this evening, so it's just me and the mice...
P.S. Got my favourite piece of trail magic so far last night when I arrived at the shelter to find three cold beers sitting in the stream. Me and two others took one each - mine was as delicious as it was unexpected.
Tuesday 14 April 2009 - Hogback Ridge Shelter
Yesterday was an unusual day - the wind was too strong for me to light my stove at breakfast time and that started the day on a negative note and my mood just got worse - so much so that I missed an opportunity for some trail magic (a house where a couple were serving dinner). However, later in the day my mood picked up as the trail went up and over an amazing ridgeline. The wind was howling and blowing me sideways, but the views were awesome and the climbing a lot of fun.
I was the first to arrive at the shelter, and since it had a fireplace, I got a fire started that kept us warm as the weather closed in.
Today was a more even tempered affair - quite a lot of uphill in the 15 miles (including a section that I hiked twice because of taking a wrong turn to look at a waterfall). I'm now settled into the shelter and am, for once, satisfied with my bear bagging efforts. Two short 10 mile days coming up which will mean that in my first month on the trail (which will be complete in 5 days time) I will have done 350 miles.. Will need to increase that to around 400 miles a month to make 5 and a half month pace. I passed the 300 mile mark on the trail today.
I was the first to arrive at the shelter, and since it had a fireplace, I got a fire started that kept us warm as the weather closed in.
Today was a more even tempered affair - quite a lot of uphill in the 15 miles (including a section that I hiked twice because of taking a wrong turn to look at a waterfall). I'm now settled into the shelter and am, for once, satisfied with my bear bagging efforts. Two short 10 mile days coming up which will mean that in my first month on the trail (which will be complete in 5 days time) I will have done 350 miles.. Will need to increase that to around 400 miles a month to make 5 and a half month pace. I passed the 300 mile mark on the trail today.
Sunday 12 April 2009 - Spring Mountain Shelter
Back on the trail today after two days of relaxing in Hot Springs, NC. Stayed at Elmer's, an amazinplace where I slept in a huge double bed for $20 a night. They also prepared amazing breakfasts and dinners so I'm well fed.
Had a beautiful day today as I walked out by the French Broad river out of town and then up into the hill above - got some great views from a fire tower too. Lying in my tent at the moment writing this and I can hear the wind picking up - rain is predicted overnight and into tomorrow - hopefully it's not too nasty. Going to be taking my time for the next few days to make sure that I'm in Erwin on Lisa's birthday to give her a call - tomorrow and the next day are still 15 miles though.
Just been stood around the campfire with some local Tennessee folk explaining who's next in line to the British throne and whether it's possible to do a hike from castle to castle in the UK...
Had a beautiful day today as I walked out by the French Broad river out of town and then up into the hill above - got some great views from a fire tower too. Lying in my tent at the moment writing this and I can hear the wind picking up - rain is predicted overnight and into tomorrow - hopefully it's not too nasty. Going to be taking my time for the next few days to make sure that I'm in Erwin on Lisa's birthday to give her a call - tomorrow and the next day are still 15 miles though.
Just been stood around the campfire with some local Tennessee folk explaining who's next in line to the British throne and whether it's possible to do a hike from castle to castle in the UK...
Saturday 11 April 2009
Thursday 9 April 2009 - Deer Park Mountain Shelter
Beautiful sunshine today - melted the snow wonderfully and made hiking nice. Saw some bear tracks near the shelter down the trail from where we slept last night - it had been walking around where people had hung their food very close to the shelter.
Planning on going into Hot Springs tomorrow morning (we are only 3 miles away) so gonna get some food - was a really nice evening though, was finally able to sit out and have a campfire. Really looking forward to a good feed in town as I've lost around 10lb since starting the trail - fancy a good burger.
Just had a nip of Bourbon from Odysseus before bedtime which was very welcome - should help me sleep...
Planning on going into Hot Springs tomorrow morning (we are only 3 miles away) so gonna get some food - was a really nice evening though, was finally able to sit out and have a campfire. Really looking forward to a good feed in town as I've lost around 10lb since starting the trail - fancy a good burger.
Just had a nip of Bourbon from Odysseus before bedtime which was very welcome - should help me sleep...
Wednesday 8 April 2009 - Roaring Fork Shelter
Really hard today - very deep and slippy snow underfoot made 15 miles fell like 20. Hiked all day with Spitfire (Beccy) and Matt who made a really good pace so we got a spot in the shelter rather than having to pitch our tents.
Tuesday 7 April 2009 - Standing Bear Hostel
The snow really came in last night and this morning I was greeted with around 6 inches of snow on the ground that had drifted to more than a foot in places - made hiking (particularly uphill) very difficult at time.
Made it the 10 miles or so to Standing Bear Hostel only to find there was no room in the bunkhouse - hence I am writing this lying in my tent pitched inside the hayloft of a barn - at least it's out of the snow! Generally feeling good and happy - looking forward to getting to town on Friday to speak to Lisa properly and to Mum and Dad.
Made it the 10 miles or so to Standing Bear Hostel only to find there was no room in the bunkhouse - hence I am writing this lying in my tent pitched inside the hayloft of a barn - at least it's out of the snow! Generally feeling good and happy - looking forward to getting to town on Friday to speak to Lisa properly and to Mum and Dad.
Monday 6 April 2009 - Cosby Knob Shelter
Some serious weather today - was kept awake last night by a huge thunder storm - thought it was going to tear the roof from the shelter. Then this morning we had snow that set in and stayed all day - the temperature was so down so low that the water in the tube of my Platypus pack froze. Did my first 20 miles day to ensure that we have a shorter day tomorrow into the Standing Bear Farm hostel. Sleeping in a packed shelter with 17 people (and an official capacity of 12). Was a fun day though - I've hiked the past few days with Monkey Wrench, Peggy + Paul and Beccy + Matt and it's been real fun, hilarious in fact. Tonight reached the height of delirium as we speculated wildly on what delights would greet us in Hot Springs.
P.S Hit the 10% mark on the trail today.
P.S Hit the 10% mark on the trail today.
Sunday 5 April 2009 - Icewater Spring Shelter
The last two days have been absolutely beautiful - sunshine and barely a cloud in the sky. We've had some amazing views, particularly from Rocky Top and Clingman's Dome (which is the highest point on the AT at 6,643 ft). Saw my first hoard of tourists today at a parking lot that the trail crosses - met a family from Worcestershire who asked lots of questions about the trail and then pointed out that I was 'taking my time' aiming for a September finish - I wasn't impressed.
Just for the record (and to act as an aide memoire) my menu for today was:
Just for the record (and to act as an aide memoire) my menu for today was:
- Breakfast: 2 x poptarts and 1 x packet of instant oatmeal (uncooked);
- Lunch: 2 x wholemeal tortilla wraps + 1 sachet of tuna;
- Dinner: 2 x packets of beef ramen noodles with 4oz of pepperami style 'beef sticks';
- Snacks: 1 x pecan granola bar, 1 x almond granola bar, 1 x Snickers.
Friday 3 April 2009 - Russell Field Shelter
Hit the Smokies today after spending last night in the Fontana 'Hilton' - a shelter with running water and its own bathrooms (imagine the luxury). Got to walk across the Dam which was fun but the weather turned out to be grotty with fog and rain all day. Looks like it's going to be a cold night too.
Spending this evening in a shelter with a chainlink fence covering the front to protect us from bears and looking at the shelter register it sounds lilkes there's been a mother and two yearlings in the area in recent nights so might see them - not sure if that's a good or bad thing!
Carrying 8 days of food that I picked up in Fontana so my pack is pretty heavy - having to make sure I eat everything as scheduled to lighten the load.
P.S. Having lost my knife the other day and bought a new one, I've now found my original one so I am now carrying two - I might be getting fitter out here, but I ain't getting smarter.
Spending this evening in a shelter with a chainlink fence covering the front to protect us from bears and looking at the shelter register it sounds lilkes there's been a mother and two yearlings in the area in recent nights so might see them - not sure if that's a good or bad thing!
Carrying 8 days of food that I picked up in Fontana so my pack is pretty heavy - having to make sure I eat everything as scheduled to lighten the load.
P.S. Having lost my knife the other day and bought a new one, I've now found my original one so I am now carrying two - I might be getting fitter out here, but I ain't getting smarter.
Wednesday 1 April 2008 - Brown Fork Gap Shelter
Very tough day today that started with me finding my boots full to the brim with water thanks to a leaky roof at the hostel I stayed at last night. Hiked up some huge hills and probably pushed myself a bit too hard - felt very sick and dehydrated towards the end of the day. In my tent now (albeit on a hill) and have done another poor bear bagging job, but am too tired to worry. Shorter day tomorrow (11 miles) into Fontana Dam and then into the Smokies.
P.S. I think I have a trail name (and an unofficial knighthood) as everyone has begun to call me Sir Richard.
P.S. I think I have a trail name (and an unofficial knighthood) as everyone has begun to call me Sir Richard.
Monday 30 March 2009 - Cold Spring Mountain Shelter
Left Franklin today on the yellow school bus that (ex pro wrestler) Ron Haven uses to drive people out to the trail. The sun shone all day long and I hiked 15.8 miles. As I was eating dinner (chicken flavour noodles) the sun was setting over the valley which my campsite looks out on - it was truly beautiful.
We've talked a lot in the past few days about success and failure and what might prevent us from making it to Kathadin and I was talking to OB about it today. As Miss Janet pointed out, the chances of making it are less than 10% which was a sobering thought. Just gonna keep doing what I'm doing and hope things go my way.
Was very annoyed to realise that I've left my penknife behind in Franklin so will need to get a new one at the Nantahala Outdoor Centre tomorrow. Also had some trouble bear bagging tonight so hopefully my food will still be there in the morning...
We've talked a lot in the past few days about success and failure and what might prevent us from making it to Kathadin and I was talking to OB about it today. As Miss Janet pointed out, the chances of making it are less than 10% which was a sobering thought. Just gonna keep doing what I'm doing and hope things go my way.
Was very annoyed to realise that I've left my penknife behind in Franklin so will need to get a new one at the Nantahala Outdoor Centre tomorrow. Also had some trouble bear bagging tonight so hopefully my food will still be there in the morning...
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