The hiking the last couple of days has been very tough – the Whites have some huge up and downs (as well as some incredible scenery) and the terrain is very rocky and muddy. The peculiar thing about the Whites is that the shelters where I usually sleep and that are free to stay in on the remainder of the trail, here charge $8 a night for the privilege. There is however, the option of working for stay at one of the 8 huts maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club. These huts accommodate between 30 and 50 people and charge around $80-$100 per night to stay. The work for stay arrangement entitles thru-hikers to eat the leftovers at dinner and breakfast and sleep on the floor in return for the completion of some chores. The problem is that this creates a very distinct sense that thru-hikers are second-class citizens – I’m currently sitting writing this tucked away in a corner as all of the other guests are tucking into a hearty dinner. It’s something akin to Chinese water torture.
I’ve had to reduce my mileage from those that I was doing through Massachusetts and Vermont but am still managing to do around 15 miles a day. Still got a lot of climbing to go in the Whites including the Presidential range and Mt Washington – the second highest peak on the trail.
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