Monday 18 May 2009 - Paul C Wolfe Shelter

Shin pain was quite bad today, but managed 22 miles to give me a nice easy 5 miles into Waynesboro tomorrow where I'm going to take a day and a half off to recuperate. Hiked this afternoon with Hermes which was great as it took my mind off my shin, but also as we talked about football for a few hours.
At lunchtime today as I was sitting on some cliffs with my bag unpacked eating a peanut butter tortilla wrap, a dog ran over, slobbered on my food bag, jumped on me (headbutting me in the process) and then ran off with my red fleece jumper in its mouth. The owner eventually showed up and persuaded the dog to give the fleece back. The net result is that since I use my fleece as a pillow, I am sleeping this evening with my face resting on dried dog slobber. Don't say the trail isn't glamorous.

Sunday 17 May 2009 - Harper's Creek Shelter

Have had better luck with the tent since the last entry - another thunder storm last night caused me no real problems and it's wonderful to have the reduced pack weight.
Have been hiking some big days (yesterday 23 miles, today 25) and getting yet more trail magic - got some apples and muesli bars from a Canadian couple yesterday and then yet more apples and candy from Hermes' Aunt and Uncle today (as they were dropping him at the trail head). In fact I've done so well that whilst most people have to hitch into a town to resupply in the 134 mile section between Daleville and Waynesboro, I haven't needed to.
Feeling my shin a little this evening but only a day and bit to Waynesboro when I can rest it. Very excited about Lisa arriving in the States in just a weeks times.

P.S. Passed the 800 mile mark today.

Friday 15 May 2009 - John's Hollow Shelter

Last night was one of the most crazy topsy-turvy evenings on the trail so far. I arrived at the Thunder Mountain shelter at around 6pm having hiked a 24 mile day and met a guy just leaving carrying a large gas stove and a big cool bag. He said that he had just cooked dinner for the people in the shelter, but that he'd happily set up again for me. So it was that last night I ate sausage, scrambled eggs and pancakes and drank orange juice (with ice!) until I was full to burst. The chap's name was John Hasty and he said that his son had hiked the trail 2 years before and he'd been coming out to two shelters that he could get his car close to to occasionally cook dinners for hikers ever since. I was more grateful than I could say.
So I settled into my tent with a full belly only to be greeted with the most intense thunderstorm on the trail so far. Water pooled under my tent and was soaking my pack which was sitting in the vestibule, so I decided to bail out and sleep in the shelter (albeit terribly).
In the tent again tonight hoping for better luck...

Wednesday 13 May 2009 - Bobblets Gap Shelter

After the excellent day documentedin my last entry came another shocker. I hiked into Daleville on Monday with incredibly painful feet - they were so bad that I found it hard to stand by the end of the day. Decided to take a day off from hiking to let them recover so I treated myself to a motel room just for me (for the first time).
My feet healed pretty well and it was really nice to have some space to myself - I watched a baseball game on TV and relaxed. At the outdoor store in town I bought some new insoles and a new tent - the MSR Hubba for anyone interested (I've sent my old one home).
Hiked 18.5 miles today and the rest and the new insoles seemed to do the trick - the pain has gone away and hiking is fun again!

Sunday 10 May 2009 - Catawba Mountain Shelter

The AT really does provide some crazy contrasts - yesterday was so tough and today was just awesome. As I planned I got up early to hike with Snuggles. The sun shone as we reached Dragon's tooth a famous tower of rock - I climbed it and Snuggles took an awesome photograph of me - one of the best on the trail so far (see below). The hiking was very technical but really good fun.

We then resupplied at a grocery store just off the trail before hitting the legendary Homeplace Restaurant. We picked up an easy hitch in and the sight that awaited us was staggering - around 100 people milling around in their Sunday best waiting to get a table. We waited for one and a half hours, but the time passed quickly as lots of locals asked about the hike (one woman stood open mouthed for literally 20 seconds when I told her the trail was 2,178 miles). Then Snuggles, Ninja and I got out table and it was genuinely mindblowing. Imagine all you can eat fried chicken, roast beef, ham, mashed potatoes, gravy, biscuits (like savoury scones), beans, coleslaw, spiced apples and homemade lemonade. And then cherry cobbler and ice cream. We sat giggling and stuffing our faces until we could eat no more then dozed on the lawn in front of the restaurant. Snuggles and I then hiked 2 miles to aid digestion and camped at a shelter.
To finish off a fantastic day I got mobile phone reception and spoke briefly to Lisa (whic was wonderful as always) and then checked the cricket scores to see that England won the first test against the West Indies by 10 wickets.
What a day!

P.S. Passed the 700 mile mark today.